Thursday, May 4, 2023

Prends Mois by Isabey c1943

Prends Mois, launched by Isabey in 1943, is a perfume shrouded in linguistic curiosity and wartime allure. Its label displays an unusual spelling—“Prends-Mois”—which immediately draws attention. In standard French, “Prends-moi” translates to “take me,” a phrase loaded with emotional, romantic, and possibly provocative implications. However, Isabey’s version substitutes moi with mois, the plural word for “months.” Literally, prends-mois means “take months”—a phrase that holds no direct meaning in French, and would not be used in any grammatical or idiomatic context. Pronounced, it would sound like “prahn mwah,” with the “s” in mois remaining silent.

Why might Isabey have chosen this altered spelling? The likely reason is a legal one. In 1930, the house of De Raymond had already registered and released a perfume under the name Prends-Moi. To avoid infringement, Isabey may have intentionally altered the spelling to create a visually and legally distinct product—Prends-Mois. Despite its technical inaccuracy, the name remains phonetically identical to Prends-moi, and thus carries all the sensual connotations of the original phrase. It suggests invitation, vulnerability, and surrender—an expression of intimacy that, in the world of perfume, speaks directly to the wearer’s skin and allure.

Launched during 1943, Prends Mois emerged in the midst of World War II, a time when much of Europe was under strain—economically, politically, and emotionally. France, under German occupation, was a country navigating hardship and censorship, yet also yearning for beauty, escapism, and expression. This moment in history is often referred to as the “Occupation years,” and in Paris, despite rationing and restrictions, fashion and fragrance remained poignant acts of resistance and self-definition. Haute couture continued, albeit in subdued form, and perfumers adapted with creativity, using available materials to conjure beauty amidst bleakness.

In this climate, a perfume called Prends-Mois would have held deep emotional resonance. For women whose lives were marked by uncertainty, separations, and longing, the name could feel like a whispered promise, a secret hope. Whether interpreted as romantic or sensual, it suggests an appeal to closeness—take me, remember me, long for me. Perfume during this time was more than just adornment; it was memory, intimacy, and emotional strength bottled into something personal and enduring.

Imagining Prends-Mois as a scent, one might expect it to reflect these emotional textures—tenderness laced with intensity. It could embody the dualities of the time: softness and strength, vulnerability and resolve. The perfume might have combined warm floral or amber notes with a touch of powder or musk—suggestive of skin, comfort, and timeless sensuality. Its character would likely have leaned toward the feminine and enveloping, a cocoon of scent designed to console, seduce, and stay close.

In the broader context of perfumery during the early 1940s, Prends-Mois would not have been alone in its romantic or evocative naming. Many perfumes of the era leaned toward themes of longing, nostalgia, and dreamlike escape—understandable, given the war. However, the overt intimacy implied by the name set it apart. Fragrances like Mitsouko (Guerlain, 1919), Scandal (Lanvin, 1933), or My Sin (Lanvin, 1924) paved the way for more emotionally charged or suggestively titled perfumes, and Prends-Mois followed in this lineage, but with its own distinctive wartime poignancy.

Ultimately, Prends Mois is more than a misprinted label—it is a subtle but powerful symbol of longing and femininity during one of the most tumultuous decades of the 20th century. Its name, though grammatically flawed, speaks fluently in the language of perfume: emotion, seduction, and the eternal dialogue between scent and self.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? I have no notes on this fragrance. I would need a sample.
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes:

Bottles:



Fate of the Fragrance:


Prends-Mois by Isabey, though little known today, had a presence that lingered quietly through the 1940s and into the early 1950s. While its exact discontinuation date remains unknown, records confirm that it was still being sold in 1951, suggesting that it remained on the market for at least eight years after its launch in 1943. Its continued availability into the post-war years indicates that the fragrance retained a certain appeal, even as perfumery entered a new era shaped by optimism, modernity, and changing tastes.

The postwar period in France, particularly the late 1940s to early 1950s, was marked by a return to luxury and refinement. Perfume houses revived their pre-war elegance, and new olfactory compositions reflected the desire for renewal and femininity. That Prends-Mois remained in production during this time suggests it struck a chord with women who still valued the romantic, emotionally charged sensibilities of the wartime era. Whether it was reissued, reformulated, or simply carried over in existing stock is unclear—but its continued listing affirms that Isabey considered it commercially and artistically viable during a period when many wartime perfumes quietly faded.

Without a surviving bottle or official notes, we can only infer its character from its name and the context of its era. But even in absence, Prends-Mois remains a curious and evocative footnote in Isabey’s perfume history—a fragrance that once whispered of intimacy and longing, and quietly endured into the threshold of a new decade before vanishing from view.


Resurrected Version of 2019:


In 2019, Prends-Moi was reborn—no longer veiled in the linguistic ambiguity of its original spelling, Prends-Mois, but confidently reclaiming its intended name and meaning: “Take Me.” With this relaunch, Isabey not only revived a historical name from its past but reimagined the fragrance for a new era of sensuality and bold expression. Masterfully reformulated by perfumer Luca Maffei, the new Prends-Moi is not a nostalgic replica, but a contemporary interpretation rooted in the emotional daring that first defined the fragrance in the 1930s.

According to the brand’s narrative, the original Prends-Mois—created in the early 1930s for the North American market—was already a provocative gesture. At a time when fragrance names tended to emphasize elegance, fantasy, or abstract beauty, the phrase Prends-moi (“Take me”) carried a charged intimacy. Minimal in design but suggestive in message, it reflected Isabey’s bold identity. The relaunch draws directly from that spirit of sensual defiance, positioning Prends-Moi not just as a perfume, but as a story—a rendezvous at midnight in Paris, a meeting of past lovers on a bridge where desire reawakens and reason dissolves.

The 2019 Prends-Moi opens with a flash of pink pepper, lending brightness and intrigue—its lively, rosé-like sparkle representing the flutter of anticipation. This top note acts as a bridge between innocence and seduction, setting the stage for the heart of the fragrance, where dualities play. At the center is a duet of rose and tuberose—two of perfumery’s most iconic floral notes. The rose, soft and romantic, suggests tenderness and memory, while the tuberose, rich and heady, is overtly carnal. The interplay between them mirrors the emotional tension of the story: the hesitancy of nostalgia against the pull of physical desire.

Perhaps the most compelling element in this reimagined fragrance is the Red Satin Lipstick accord, a note designed to evoke the unmistakable scent of cosmetics—waxen, powdery, and faintly fruity, like a kiss remembered. This is where the composition takes a daring turn, infusing the perfume with personality and glamour. This accord flirts with a smooth, indulgent cocoa note, which brings warmth and depth, hinting at temptation and pleasure. The effect is not gourmand in the traditional sense, but rather tactile and intimate, like the scent of warm skin and lingering lipstick after a stolen moment.

The red color used in the bottle design is no afterthought—it’s a visual metaphor for the perfume’s message. Red, the color of passion, lips, and danger, signals everything the name Prends-Moi implies. This isn’t a passive fragrance; it’s an invitation—bold, magnetic, and deliberately sensual. With Maffei’s composition, Isabey transforms its archival idea into a thoroughly modern creation—both a tribute to the past and a declaration of fearless femininity.

In the world of contemporary perfumery, where reinterpretations of vintage fragrances are increasingly common, Prends-Moi distinguishes itself by daring to preserve the emotional power of its name. It speaks not of nostalgia, but of desire that endures, ignites, and demands to be remembered.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: raspberry, pink pepper and bergamot
  • Middle notes: iris, red satin lipstick accord, tuberose absolute, rose absolute and cardamom
  • Base notes: cacao absolute, creamy sandalwood and amber accord

Scent Profile:


To experience Prends-Moi by Isabey is to be swept into a vivid, emotionally charged narrative—one that unfolds across skin like a whispered confession. This floral amber fragrance, reimagined by Luca Maffei, is layered with exquisite natural materials and nuanced synthetic accords that evoke both timeless romance and daring modernity. It is sensual, tender, and unabashedly intimate.

The opening is immediate and exhilarating. Raspberry appears first—not jammy or overly sweet, but juicy and fresh, like the first bite of a ripe berry warmed by sunlight. It has a luminous, slightly tart quality that teases the senses, providing both brightness and sensuality. This fruitiness is swiftly elevated by pink pepper, which adds a rosé-like sparkle—fizzy, floral, and with a subtle metallic glint. Derived from Schinus molle berries, pink pepper is not truly peppery in a culinary sense, but instead brings a refined, effervescent warmth that enhances and aerates the raspberry, giving it energy and lift. Anchoring this top accord is a streak of bergamot, the citrus essential oil cold-pressed from the rind of fruit grown primarily in Calabria, southern Italy. Bergamot lends a refined freshness—green, slightly floral, and not overtly citrusy. It stabilizes the pink pepper’s sparkle while offering a sophisticated opening that avoids becoming cloying or sharp.

As the top fades, the heart of the fragrance reveals its true emotional weight. The Red Satin Lipstick accord emerges—a modern, abstract construct designed to mimic the scent of luxury cosmetics: waxy, powdery, soft, and faintly fruity. It conjures a tactile memory—the smell of a kiss, or the creamy scent of makeup melting into warm skin. This accord harmonizes with rose absolute, extracted from the petals of Rosa damascena or Rosa centifolia, likely sourced from either Grasse or Bulgaria. Rose absolute is rich, honeyed, and velvety, adding depth and elegance. Paired with tuberose absolute—a white floral known for its narcotic sensuality—the result is intoxicating. Tuberose, especially when sourced from India or southern France, offers a creamy, almost rubbery lushness that pulses with seduction. It is one of perfumery’s most provocative flowers, and here it heightens the heart’s sultry texture.

Woven through the florals is iris, most likely from the rhizomes of Iris pallida, prized for its dry, buttery, suede-like character. Iris adds a powdery softness, tempering the heady tuberose and rose with cool restraint. The inclusion of cardamom—a spice native to India and Guatemala—introduces a cool green spiciness that keeps the floral heart from becoming overly dense. It’s fresh, aromatic, and just a little exotic, flickering through the more voluptuous notes like a breeze through silk.

As the fragrance dries down, it settles into a warm, enveloping base. Cacao absolute brings an earthy, bitter-sweet richness—reminiscent of dark chocolate, but drier and more resinous. It adds a sensual, edible note that deepens the lipstick accord from the heart, drawing it closer to skin. Creamy sandalwood, likely from sustainable plantations in Australia or India, adds a soft, milky warmth—its lactonic facets enhancing the iris and tuberose, while its dry woodiness grounds the composition. The amber accord, likely a blend of resins (like labdanum or benzoin) and synthetics such as Ambrox or Cetalox, offers a glowing, golden finish. This is not a sticky or sweet amber, but rather a modern, skin-like warmth—smooth, musky, and sensual. These synthetics are critical here: they extend the longevity of the fragrance and allow the natural ingredients to radiate and evolve slowly, evoking the sensation of lingering closeness.

Together, these elements make Prends-Moi more than just a floral amber. It’s a perfume that tells a story of passion remembered and reignited—a scented portrait of red lips, warm skin, and silk slipping off the shoulders. Every note is precisely chosen to balance innocence with seduction, refinement with heat. It is a fragrance that lingers long after the embrace, like a trace of memory pressed into skin.

  

Bottles:


Prends Moi Eau de Parfum is housed inside of a bottle that combines modern design with a 1920s Isabey bottle originally produced by Czech master glass craftsman, Ludwig Moser. You can purchase the 50ml flacon directly from Parfums Isabey's website.

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