Friday, May 5, 2023

Le Lys Noir by Isabey c1924

Le Lys Noir by Isabey was launched in 1924—a moment when perfumery, fashion, and art were undergoing dramatic transformation in the wake of World War I. The name Le Lys Noir is French and translates to "The Black Lily" in English. Pronounced “luh leess nwahr,” the title evokes intrigue, opulence, and mystery. While the lily is a flower long associated with purity and divinity, the addition of the word noir—black—adds an unexpected and alluring contrast. It conjures images of dark elegance, nocturnal gardens, velvet gowns, and the alluring danger of forbidden desire. In the 1920s, when modernity collided with decadence, a name like Le Lys Noir would have resonated deeply with women eager to embrace a new era of expression and sophistication.

The 1920s—often referred to as Les Années Folles or “the crazy years” in France—were marked by social upheaval, artistic experimentation, and a reinvention of the feminine identity. Women had just emerged from wartime austerity and were eager to redefine themselves. Hemlines rose, corsets disappeared, and personal expression—through makeup, fashion, and fragrance—became central to modern life. The lily had long been popular in perfumery, a staple in Victorian and Edwardian scents where it symbolized innocence and spiritual elevation. But in this new world, Isabey reimagined the lily with a bold twist. By naming it Le Lys Noir, the house gave the traditional floral a dramatic makeover, making it bolder, sexier, and more mysterious—perfectly suited for the modern woman of the Jazz Age.

Lilies, while breathtaking in nature, do not yield essential oil in a conventional manner. True lily essence is extremely difficult to extract, and what is used in perfumery is typically a blend of synthetic molecules designed to capture its creamy, pollen-dusted aroma. These may include compounds such as hydroxycitronellal, lily aldehydes, and specific floral aroma chemicals like linalool and Iralia. In Le Lys Noir, the lily accord would have been interpreted using a combination of these synthetics alongside natural materials to create a layered, textural effect. Linalool, for instance, imparts a fresh floral brightness; Iralia brings a soft violet-like nuance with powdery overtones; while eugenol adds a spicy carnation clove-like edge.

What distinguished Le Lys Noir in 1924 was not merely its floral heart but its oriental base—a warm, resinous foundation of vanilla, benzoin, amber, civet, and perhaps even real musk or ambergris, which were still used in fine perfumery at the time. These heavy, sensual components grounded the airy floral top and middle notes, transforming the perfume into something velvety and lingering. The use of new synthetics like coumarin and vanillin (a chemical mimic of natural vanilla) allowed perfumers to expand their palettes and sculpt fragrances that were both longer-lasting and more complex than ever before.

Perfumer Jean Jacques crafted Le Lys Noir with this balance in mind—paying homage to the lily’s classical form while draping it in the silk and shadow of the orientalist trend so fashionable at the time. This blend of floral purity and sensual darkness would have made the perfume stand out among the aldehydic florals and green chypres that also populated the shelves in the 1920s. Rather than following a rigid structure, Isabey added noir—both figuratively and literally—ushering in a fragrance that was as much about style and statement as it was about scent. In a period obsessed with cinematic glamor, Eastern exoticism, and personal reinvention, Le Lys Noir offered women a fragrant identity both elegant and daring.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Le Lys Noir by Isabey is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.  
  • Top notes: Syrian acacia, Calabrian bergamot, Portuguese orange, Sicilian neroli, nerolin, lily aldehyde, Moroccan narcissus, Algerian jonquil, Dutch hyacinth, Alpine lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, linalool
  • Middle notes: Indian tuberose, Egyptian jasmine, Tuscan violet, methyl ionone, Iralia, Florentine orris, Tunisian orange blossom, Grasse rose, Peruvian heliotrope, piperonal, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Ceylon cardamom, Zanzibar clove, eugenol 
  • Base notes: Brazilian rosewood, ambergris, ambreine, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, Sumatran styrax, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siam benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin
 

Scent Profile:

Le Lys Noir by Isabey opens like a silk curtain drawn back in the hush of twilight—a fragrance that does not simply arrive, but emerges, mysterious and sumptuous, every note stitched with the lush detail of a rare tapestry. A floral oriental by structure, its name—The Black Lily—suggests an imagined flower, both shadowed and sacred, conjuring a garden of midnight blooms soaked in incense and moonlight.

The opening is sheer radiance. A burst of Calabrian bergamot, plucked from the sun-drenched Ionian coast, glows with zest and bitterness, immediately softened by the sweet brightness of Portuguese orange, juicier and more rounded than its Spanish cousin. From nearby Sicily comes neroli, the distilled white blossom of bitter orange trees—delicate and honeyed, but with a waxy green edge that lifts the citrus into airier spaces. Nerolin, a soft floral aromatic derived from orange oil, refines this interplay, adding a creamy, soapy shimmer that elongates the neroli’s brightness into the realm of aldehydes.

And indeed, here the lily aldehyde arrives—not a literal lily, but a synthetic creation that mimics the fleshy, green-white radiance of that flower’s imagined scent. Sharp at first, it soon softens under the influence of hydroxycitronellal, the classic molecule used to simulate lily of the valley, which here is balanced with actual Alpine lily of the valley—cool and watery, like snowmelt over petals. From the Netherlands, Dutch hyacinth adds a waxen, slightly metallic floral texture—sharp, almost minty, evoking the crispness of chilled blossoms.

A honeyed, animalic thread from Moroccan narcissus runs through the top, earthy and hay-like, blending seamlessly with Algerian jonquil, which brings an indolic edge—lush, almost leathery. Syrian acacia adds a faint golden dustiness, a whisper of powdery pollen that glows quietly in the background. And grounding it all is linalool, naturally found in many floral oils, used here to lend a breathy, floral clarity that tames the greener aldehydes.

As the heart blooms, it becomes more intimate—closer to the skin, deeper in tone. Indian tuberose opens its creamy petals first, bold and narcotic with a soft mentholic freshness. This is quickly matched by Egyptian jasmine, indolic and ripe, its sensuality both radiant and fleshly. Tunisian orange blossom returns as a supporting chorus, linking the bright citrus-floral opening to the more opulent heart. The Tuscan violet, dusted and plush, weaves through the florals with a nostalgic, makeup-powder softness, boosted by methyl ionone, a key component in many vintage floral accords. This violet aroma is expanded and refined by Iralia, a proprietary molecule with an orris-violet profile—adding body and polish.

The Florentine orris, derived from aged iris rhizomes, adds a rooty, suede-like texture—expensive, rare, and hauntingly beautiful. The Grasse rose, lush and dew-spun, bridges the gap between tender and bold, bringing a subtle spiciness, especially when paired with Peruvian heliotrope, which glows with almondy, vanillic warmth. Piperonal, or heliotropin, a synthetic with cherry-marzipan nuances, augments the heliotrope’s presence, smoothing and sweetening the entire heart.

Into this floral richness seeps a spiced warmth: Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, from the tiny island near Madagascar, known for its creamy, banana-like depth; Ceylon cardamom, cool and aromatic, which lifts the sweetness with a peppery snap; and Zanzibar clove, rich in eugenol, adding a dark carnation-like spice. The eugenol, derived from clove oil, further enhances the complexity with a medicinal, spicy warmth that lingers like heat against the skin.

The drydown is where Le Lys Noir fully surrenders to the night. Brazilian rosewood, now rare, imparts a warm, slightly citrusy woodiness that gently transitions into the soft animalics. Ambergris, once found floating along the ocean’s edge, lends a salty, musky brightness—both airy and corporeal. Ambreine, whether from natural ambergris or synthesized, elongates this effect, smoothing it into silk. Tibetan musk and Abyssinian civet—now often replaced by ethical synthetics—contribute a shadowed sensuality, subtly animalic, earthy, and unmistakably intimate.

Sumatran styrax, with its balsamic depth and leathery sweetness, wraps the base in smoke. Siam benzoin adds resinous warmth, tinged with vanilla and spice. Speaking of which, Mexican vanilla, true vanilla from orchid pods, blends with vanillin, its crystalline, synthetic cousin, creating a mouthwatering, caramel-cream softness. Venezuelan tonka bean, rich in coumarin, deepens the gourmand base, its toasted almond character layered with hay and tobacco. Coumarin, both natural and synthetic, has long been used to create a warm, comforting anchor—a whisper of skin and sweetness.

In the end, Le Lys Noir feels like stepping into a private dream. Every ingredient, whether rare flower or crafted molecule, contributes to an illusion of a mythical black lily—one that never existed in nature but lives fully in the world of scent. It’s a perfume both of its time and timeless—elegantly composed, erotically charged, and utterly unforgettable.



Bottles:



Viard Bottle:

The Le Lys Noir perfume by Isabey is shown here in its original, dramatically stylized presentation—a masterwork of 1920s luxury design, blending exoticism with Gothic romanticism. As described in period advertisements, the fragrance was sold “in a mummy package and a beautiful pyramid bottle,” an apt description of this highly theatrical and meticulously detailed ensemble.

The bottle, designed by renowned French glass artist Julien Viard, is formed of clear pressed glass and shaped into a truncated pyramid, echoing the mystique of ancient Egypt. The cubic section gives it a geometric precision, but this is softened by the graceful molded floral and foliate motifs at the base, which are highlighted with a deep anthracite-colored patina, giving the impression of carved metalwork. The bottle’s structure subtly flares outward, enhancing its sense of upward movement and verticality. Its conical stopper, molded with an intricate Gothic-style floral motif, resembles a cut jewel or a flame—an elegant finishing touch that complements the mystical aura of the perfume’s name, Le Lys Noir ("The Black Lily").

The presentation box is equally striking. Constructed of poplar wood and fully covered in embossed “Toledo paper”—a decorative material inspired by Spanish leatherwork—it features elaborate swirling patterns in shades of warm copper and brown. The box is structured to lean slightly backward, not upright, giving it the appearance of an ornate chapel or reliquary. Its double doors open outward, revealing a luxurious interior lined with golden yellow satin, designed to cradle the bottle like a jewel. A tiny metal clasp set with a red stone or bead secures the doors, adding another jeweler’s touch to the overall impression of opulence.

This edition of Le Lys Noir housed approximately 1 2/3 ounces of pure parfum—a generous amount considering the richness of the fragrance and its concentration. Every detail of the presentation speaks to the era’s fascination with Egyptology, theatrical luxury, and the Art Deco desire to merge art, design, and exoticism into a single sensorial object. This is not simply a perfume bottle; it is a carefully crafted statement of identity, fantasy, and sensual appeal.











Lalique Bottle:

Another exquisite presentation for Le Lys Noir by Isabey took the form of a rare Rene Lalique-designed flacon, a stunning embodiment of Art Deco geometry and symbolism. This particular bottle, rendered in colorless crystal, is octagonal in shape, with eight sharply faceted sides that catch and reflect the light with elegant restraint. Standing 6 centimeters tall—approximately 2.36 inches—it is compact in size but rich in decorative detail.

The most arresting feature of this Lalique flacon is its stenciled decoration, composed of stylized Egyptian lotus blossoms—or more precisely, water lilies—executed in deep black enamel. These abstracted floral motifs evoke the name Le Lys Noir ("The Black Lily") with both poetic and visual precision. The design speaks to the fascination with Egyptian themes that swept through the decorative arts following the 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, influencing fashion, jewelry, architecture, and perfumery during the 1920s. The black enamel work is believed to have been applied by Alix Aymé, a French artist and lacquerist known for her refined, graphic sensibility and precise craftsmanship. Her collaboration would have added a sophisticated layer of artistry to this already luxurious object.

What makes this design particularly notable is its enduring legacy. The same lotus motif would reappear nearly a century later in the design of Lalique’s Azalée bottle in 2013, a modern reinterpretation that echoes this earlier masterpiece. The visual link between the two bottles underscores Lalique’s timeless influence in perfume bottle design and the enduring appeal of the Le Lys Noir aesthetic.

In this incarnation, Le Lys Noir is more than a fragrance—it is a miniature sculpture, a symbol of mystery and elegance, where Art Deco modernity meets ancient Egyptian allure.




 
Black Flacon:

An even rarer and more elusive edition of Le Lys Noir exists in the form of a striking opaque black crystal flacon, a bottle that exudes dramatic sophistication and a sense of quiet opulence. This version mirrors the eight-sided geometry of the Rene Lalique design but inverts the silhouette, creating a shape that feels more architectural and grounded. Each beveled edge is meticulously accented with gold enamel, lending a refined contrast to the matte richness of the black crystal. The result is a vessel that evokes both ancient mystery and modern luxury—an object as captivating as the name Le Lys Noir itself.

The stopper offers a thoughtful visual echo of Julien Viard’s original design, maintaining the same distinctive shape but reimagined here in black crystal, its contours outlined in delicate gold detailing. The overall effect is regal, like an onyx jewel meant to be cradled in the palm—a tactile treasure designed to both conceal and celebrate the precious fragrance within. While the maker of this bottle remains unknown, the craftsmanship suggests it was produced by a highly skilled glasshouse familiar with the codes of luxury presentation and the nuanced language of perfume bottle design in the interwar years.

This rare black crystal edition stands apart not only for its scarcity but for the way it reinterprets existing motifs from both Lalique and Viard—two of the most celebrated designers of the era—while creating something entirely its own. It is a bottle that feels like it belongs to a ritual: exotic, dramatic, and quietly sumptuous. Like Le Lys Noir itself, this flacon invites contemplation and admiration, embodying the spirit of a fragrance designed to linger in memory.



 



Fate of the Fragrance:



The original Le Lys Noir by Isabey was introduced in 1924 and continued to be sold at least through 1929, though the precise date of its discontinuation remains unknown. At the time, it stood as a daring and refined creation—a fragrance named for the “black lily,” a poetic symbol rather than a literal flower, conjuring imagery of elegance, mystery, and the allure of the unknown. Its presentation reflected that theme: housed in an ornate pressed-glass bottle by Julien Viard and nestled within a dramatic “mummy-style” case lined in rich yellow satin, it conveyed luxury, mystery, and a flair for the exotic. In its day, Le Lys Noir was part of Isabey’s core fragrance offering, alongside Gardenia, La Route d’Emeraude, and Le Mimosa, all of which contributed to establishing the house’s prestige during the interwar period.

2014 Reformulation & Reissue:


In 2014, the house of Isabey—revived under Panouge—reintroduced as Lys Noir as a modern reinterpretation of the original scent, crafted by perfumer Rania Naim. While no direct formula from the 1920s is known to survive, this contemporary version pays tribute to the legacy and character of the original, balancing vintage glamour with modern sensuality. The perfume was refreshed again in 2017, each time preserving the Art Deco codes of the brand that were so central to its identity.

In this new iteration, Lys Noir emerges as a sophisticated floral chypre, designed to evoke a shadowed elegance—a chiaroscuro of scent. The fragrance opens with a spark of black pepper, lending immediate depth and intrigue. From there, it unfolds into an opulent bouquet of narcotic white florals: tuberose and narcissus, rich with creamy, slightly animalic notes that emphasize the carnal and dramatic. The lily—while symbolic—is interpreted through these lush floral accords, creating a modern version of the “black lily” in scent.

The base develops into a velvety, musky wood accord, where patchouli introduces a dark, earthy texture that pairs with creamy sandalwood and the resinous weight of ebony wood. A musky veil lends a sensual finish, leaving behind a seductive trail—a signature for the elegant and enigmatic femme du monde.

While it is not a replica of the 1924 perfume, this contemporary Lys Noir honors the spirit of the original: bold, captivating, and unapologetically glamorous. Through this modern interpretation, the house of Isabey bridges its storied past with the desires of today's fragrance connoisseurs, reaffirming its place in the pantheon of fine perfumery.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top note: pepper
  • Middle notes: tuberose, narcissus, lily and heliotrope
  • Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, musk and ebony

Scent Profile:


From the very first breath, Lys Noir envelopes the senses in mystery. The opening is crisp, dry, and bracing, built entirely around the single, striking note of black pepper. This is no mere seasoning—it’s a spice reborn as perfume, delivering a burst of piquant brightness. The pepper awakens the skin with a peppery crackle that stings gently, its dry heat evoking dusky silk, shadows at twilight, and the slow smolder of anticipation. The choice to lead with pepper sets the tone for what’s to come: this is not a fragrance of demure sweetness, but of allure, confidence, and depth.

As the pepper softens, the heart blooms—bold and narcotic. At the center is the tuberose, sourced from India, with its creamy, almost waxy texture. It feels rich and full, like velvet petals under the fingertips. Tuberose is known for its intensity and slight animalic facets—it is both floral and fleshy, and here, it conjures sultry evenings and enveloping heat. The narcissus, likely French or Moroccan in origin, sharpens this lushness with a green, almost hay-like edge that lends complexity. Narcissus is less about sweetness than it is about raw elegance—it smells golden and dry, with a faint bitterness that cuts beautifully through the tuberose’s cream.

The lily, though symbolic in the name, is rendered with a light touch. Rather than a heady, photorealistic lily, this note leans into abstraction, likely built using lily aldehydes and gentle floral inflections to conjure a ghost of the black lily—dark, delicate, mysterious. It hovers like a memory, more suggestion than substance. Heliotrope completes the floral quartet, offering a powdery, almond-like sweetness. Its pastel warmth softens the sharper floral edges and introduces the slightest hint of vanilla, bridging the heart to the deeper base.

As the scent settles, it unfurls a darker, smoother warmth. Sandalwood, likely Australian or Indian, brings a milky, creamy woodiness with faint smoky facets—it is soft yet solid, like polished wood warmed by sunlight. The patchouli, from Indonesia, offers an earthy contrast. In this composition, it’s neither musty nor dominant, but clean and subtly camphorous, grounding the florals with its mineral richness. Musk, likely a modern synthetic such as muscone or galaxolide, lends a gentle animalic warmth, tying the base together with a whisper-soft sensuality. It’s not heavy—rather, it gives a second-skin effect, as if the fragrance is melting into you.

Finally, ebony wood—a note that evokes the depth of lacquered darkness—adds structure and mystery. It is sleek and dry, a polished black frame for the otherwise plush, glowing composition. The interplay between ebony and sandalwood—dark and light woods—creates a chiaroscuro effect, echoing the brand’s own description of Lys Noir as a fragrance built around light and shadow.

Altogether, Lys Noir reads as a modern chypre in disguise—a floral oriental with roots in classic perfumery but delivered with elegance and restraint. Every ingredient contributes its own nuance, but the beauty lies in how they shift and settle together: spicy, creamy, floral, and finally dusky and soft, like moonlight falling on midnight silk.


Bottles:


The 2014 reissue of Lys Noir by Isabey is presented with understated yet powerful elegance, mirroring the seductive mystery of the fragrance itself. The bottle is crafted from smoked glass, its surfaces given a velvety matte finish on four of its faces, creating a tactile contrast between soft light diffusion and the subtle sheen of its translucence. The matte texture enhances the bottle’s sculptural quality, giving it a quietly sensuous, modern presence—sleek yet inviting to the touch. Printed in bright metallic silver serigraphy, the bottle features the name Lys Noir alongside a graceful, stylised ivy motif that evokes both timeless romance and the entwining pull of nature. The ivy design, curving and sinuous, is a subtle nod to both Art Deco embellishment and the creeping allure of the fragrance itself.

Topping the bottle is a black cap with a modern, soft matte rubberized coating that adds to the tactile experience. Unlike traditional caps, this one is fitted with a discreet magnet, which allows it to snap into place with satisfying precision—both a practical and aesthetic detail that underscores the perfume’s refined craftsmanship. The closure feels purposeful, secure, and elegant—small, thoughtful touches like this elevate the presentation.

The outer packaging echoes the same sensibility of luxe restraint. The bottle is housed in a sumptuous presentation box covered in metallic silver paper with a richly textured finish, giving the surface a subtle shimmer that plays with light. Black serigraphy adorns the box, repeating the same ivy motif seen on the bottle, creating cohesion between the interior and exterior elements. Upon opening the box, the perfume is revealed nestled in a gathered lining of glossy black satin, which cradles the bottle like a precious jewel. The satin catches the light in folds and curves, adding a final note of drama and intimacy to the unboxing experience. Altogether, the design harmonizes contemporary minimalism with vintage-inspired glamour, a perfect visual counterpart to the mysterious floral oriental scent it holds.


Below are photos of my own box I purchased. Below are some photos of the back of the box with the description, the base of the box showing the ingredients list, and the base of the bottle.








Perle de Lys Noir:



In 2014, Isabey reintroduced the mystique of Lys Noir in a special limited edition extrait de parfum titled Perle de Lys Noir.  The extrait itself—Perle de Lys Noir—is a more concentrated and intensified expression of the original Lys Noir fragrance. Designed to linger longer on the skin and deepen its sillage, the extrait amplifies the most opulent and velvety aspects of the composition. Each note is rendered with greater richness and resonance, transforming the perfume into something almost tactile—a second skin of darkness, floral depth, and woody warmth. As a collector’s edition, Perle de Lys Noir is more than a fragrance; it is a statement of elegance, mystery, and timeless allure. You can purchase this directly from Parfum Isabey's website.

Fragrance Composition:

  • Top note: broom absolute, black lily, black pepper
  • Middle notes: ylang ylang essence, tuberose essence, jasmine essence
  • Base notes: amber, vanilla, incense, sandalwood essence, cashmere wood

Scent Profile:


As I inhale the concentrated extrait of Perle de Lys Noir, the experience unfolds like slipping into a silk-lined cloak of shadow and floral richness—similar in structure to the 2014 Eau de Parfum version of Lys Noir, but rendered in higher volume, with deeper shadows, more decadent textures, and a longer, enveloping trail. The extrait version is not merely stronger—it is more sculptural, magnifying each note with heightened clarity and richness. Where the Eau de Parfum whispers, Perle de Lys Noir speaks in velvet tones and smoky velvet resonance.

The opening strikes with the dry, honeyed richness of broom absolute, an unusual and luxurious top note. Broom from southern Europe, particularly from France and Italy, carries a wild sweetness touched with tobacco and hay—arid, sun-drenched, and faintly animalic. This herbaceous warmth contrasts with the assertive spiciness of black pepper, which adds a prickle of brightness and sharpness, anchoring the perfume's darker intentions. Then, from within, the elusive black lily emerges—not a literal floral extract, but an olfactory portrait composed with accords and possibly lily aldehydes or lily-like synthetics. This lily is no dewy garden bloom—it is dense, nocturnal, inky in tone, conjuring the elegance of black silk and polished obsidian.

In the heart, a trio of white floral essences blooms with narcotic intensity. The ylang ylang, likely sourced from the Comoros or Madagascar, brings a banana-like creaminess with undercurrents of clove and custard, laying a rich floral foundation. Tuberose essence, in extrait concentration, is even more potent than in the EDP version. This is tuberose at its most carnal—opulent, buttery, with a touch of camphorous green. The jasmine essence—perhaps from Egyptian or Indian origin—adds a honeyed animalic nuance, binding the florals with radiant intensity. In the EDP, these florals shimmer and float, but here they saturate the air like velvet petals in a candlelit room.

As the scent settles into its base, the extrait’s signature becomes unmistakably rich and long-lasting. Amber, likely a blend of labdanum and ambery aroma-molecules, provides a warm, resinous glow, while vanilla (potentially from Madagascar) adds sweet, balsamic depth. The incense here feels more pronounced than in the EDP—smoky tendrils of olibanum or frankincense rise and coil through the composition, bringing a sacred, almost ritualistic elegance. Sandalwood essence, especially from Mysore (if ethically sourced), lends a creamy, sacred woodiness that softens the darker edges. Finally, cashmere wood—a synthetic note that replicates the sensation of soft, musky woods—wraps everything in a plush cocoon of comfort and warmth.

Compared to the 2014 Eau de Parfum, Perle de Lys Noir extrait offers less air and more gravity. The structure is similar, the DNA unmistakable, but in the extrait, each note is intensified, more layered, and more persistent. Where the EDP may radiate with floral brightness and effervescent pepper, the extrait lingers with smoky florals, plush woods, and a mysterious sensuality that hugs close to the skin. For those who loved Lys Noir in its EDP form, the extrait is like stepping into its shadowy twin—a darker, more intimate interpretation designed for evenings, secrets, and unforgettable presence.

Bottle:


This opulent version reimagined the original 1924 “perle” flacon, a shape once distinguished by its soft, iridescent pearlized finish. For this contemporary edition, however, the bottle is transformed into a study in dramatic contrast—its surface rendered in a deep, opaque black. The result is a flacon that feels both modern and timeless, echoing the mystery and sensuality of the perfume it holds. Its smooth, spherical form is simple yet elegant, with the dark lacquered glass reflecting subtle glints of light like polished onyx.

This luxurious presentation is complemented by a striking display case, covered in richly textured ebony-black leather. The tactile surface adds a sense of gravitas and refinement, evoking the kind of old-world craftsmanship that once defined haute parfumerie. Inside, the bottle rests in a bed of luminous black satin, which cushions and showcases the flacon like a piece of precious jewelry. The deep folds of the satin shimmer subtly against the matte finish of the bottle, creating an interplay of texture and tone that feels at once sensuous and sophisticated.


2017 Update:


In 2017, Lys Noir by Isabey underwent a thoughtful presentation update, bridging the maison’s Art Deco heritage with a contemporary touch. The Eau de Parfum was now housed in a bottle inspired by a 1920s design originally crafted by the celebrated Czech glass artisan Ludwig Moser, whose work was renowned for its clarity, precision, and geometric elegance. The updated flacon features a clean, square silhouette—modern in its simplicity, yet historically rooted in the luxurious glass traditions of early 20th-century European perfumery. The bottle maintains the sleek, smoked glass aesthetic introduced in 2014, paired with the house’s signature stylized silver ivy design applied via metallic serigraphy. This combination of sharp geometry and soft matte textures gives the perfume a strong visual identity—elegant, mysterious, and unmistakably Isabey.

The 50ml flacon is available for purchase directly from Parfums Isabey’s official website, a gesture that retains a sense of exclusivity and personal connection with the brand. In addition, Isabey introduced a 10ml travel flacon travel spray—a thoughtful and practical offering for loyal wearers. Perfectly sized for a handbag or evening clutch, the travel flacon allows the wearer to carry the fragrance’s glamorous signature wherever they go, making it ideal for nights out, romantic dinners, or elegant affairs.

While the house has not officially confirmed a reformulation, some perfume lovers have noted subtle differences between the 2014 and 2017 versions of Lys Noir, suggesting a possible quiet tweak to the formula. Whether due to ingredient sourcing, updated regulations, or creative refinement, the 2017 edition may wear slightly smoother or more translucent to some noses. Nonetheless, it retains the hallmarks that define Lys Noir—its dark floral sensuality, its peppered intrigue, and its rich, musky-sandalwood base. This updated presentation, much like the fragrance itself, pays homage to the past while embracing the elegance of the present.








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Le Lys Noir by Isabey c1924

Le Lys Noir by Isabey was launched in 1924—a moment when perfumery, fashion, and art were undergoing dramatic transformation in the wake of ...